The first house in Barcelona to hold three stars, Martín Berasategui’s, run day after day by Paolo Casagrande. Everything has already been written about a restaurant like this, which is precisely the difficulty: the work is not to announce it, but to find what nobody has looked at yet.

So it goes where the stars do not reach. The same three people have run this house since 2012, Casagrande in the kitchen, Joan Carles Ibáñez in the room and Xavi Donnay in pastry, between them Michelin’s best room and service manager and a world’s best pastry chef. And above the dining room sits Il Milione, eight seats and a menu that exists nowhere else, named for Marco Polo’s book of wonders.

Bank Hotel, Ekstedt, Röda Huset, Sperling & Co and Le Hibou, presented not as five addresses but as one argument about what Stockholm has become.

Group press trips several times a year, each built for a different audience, from bar voters to travel writers, alongside awards work and a continuous international programme.

A house where the music and the menu are written in the same key. The work has run from pre-opening strategy through to a steady flow of international press, with more than twenty journalists hosted in the first eighteen months.

Among the results: Forbes, Euronews, Falstaff, Identità Golose, Travel + Leisure and a four-night Prince tribute with his former personal chefs, covered from Copenhagen to California.

A former sawmill in the Swedish forest where every dish meets birch wood and nothing else. The temptation with a restaurant like this is to talk about the fire. The better story is the river, the forager and the two people who made a home of it first.

Press trips designed around the landscape rather than the dining room, plus festival appearances and a long run of international features.

Ten years beside Bittor Arginzoniz at Etxebarri, and then a farmhouse of his own in the same valley. The easy story writes itself: the apprentice who left the master. It is also the story that would keep Tetsuro Maeda a footnote in somebody else’s chapter for the rest of his career.

So the work goes to what is his. The Japanese sensibility he brings to a Basque grill. The two hectares of garden that supplies nine of every ten vegetables in the kitchen, and the soy sauce and miso he ferments from what the kitchen would otherwise throw away. One Michelin star six months after opening, 85th in the world and two knives at The Best Chef Awards, from a farmhouse in the Atxondo valley.